Voodoo Tele: Finishing off the maple cap and routing the cavities

After removing the clamps I was faced with a problem which I knew was heading my way – when I’d trimmed the map cap to rough size I’d not centred the neck on on the line properly and it didn’t match the body exactly.

It was very easily fixed though, I used the cap as a template for the flush cut router bits and just trimmed the body to match, then did the same, using the sapele body as the template to trim the maple cap.

I marked up the cavities and their depths.

Before starting to make more sawdust I double checked the positioning, particularly of the bridge pickup rout. I do this by fitting the high and low E tuners, and running a thread from bridge to tuners and back to bridge.

After routing I strung it up again to mark the bridge location.

I mark the front edge of the bridge, and then extend the line perpendicular to the centre line.

Double check the scale length. 12.75″ from 12th fret to high E saddle is spot on.

Offer up the bridge and mark the position of the screw holes and string through holes.

And that was it for the day. The final few woodworking jobs that are left are to drill the jack socket hole, the bridge mounting and string through holes. Once they’re done it’ll be on to final sanding and finish. I’m just trying to work out whether it is better to do the danish oil back and neck before the nitrocellulose on the body and headstock caps, or vice-versa.

2 thoughts on “Voodoo Tele: Finishing off the maple cap and routing the cavities

  1. So does the bridge allow you to go down through the body OR through the back wall of the bridge? Or are the holes on the “back wall” just a reflection of the holes that allow you to go through the body?
    Looks great!

    • It is a Wilkinson bridge which can be be used for thru body stringing or as a top-loader.

      The top-loader option is looking very attractive, because getting the six holes drilled, so that they exit in a perfect spaced line, is not an easy thing to do!

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