In between the work on the Telecaster, I’ve been cutting an inlay and finishing the headstock of the RockMangle.
Aside from the inlay, I wanted to add a maple veneer to the headstock because the original wood was rather plain. I also needed to cut and fit a new nut. In between doing this I also decided to use the veneer I had to make my own truss rod cover.
This is my original design for the logo.
It proved very difficult to cut this and after four attempts I decided to redesign the shape to something “chunkier”. This picture is midway through cutting the inlay shape out of the maple veneer.
At this stage I’d cut out the inlay, and cut the shape into the maple headstock veneer.
I glued it up, mixing a lttle maple sawdust with the glue going in round the inlay.
I then had a few problems with the edges of the inlay lifting.
After a couple of extra applications of glue, and sever clamping, this is what I ended up with.
I’d ordered a bone nut blank and so I trimmed this down to almost the size of the original, and then used sandpaper to take it close to the original shape. That done I attached it to the guitar for final shaping and cutting.
One of the things I’d noticed when playing the guitar is that, whilst still very playable, I couldn’t get the action down as low as I like it. The neck could have done with being angled back a further 0.5 deg. To overcome this and make sure I had a wide enough range of height adjustment on the bridge, I decided to rebate the bridge pins whilst the strings were off.
A quick wipe of Danish Oil and refitting the bridge posts (not forgetting to retrap the earth strap) and the job was quickly done.
During the night I’d been awoken by the brain wave that, instead of using the standard plastic three ply truss rod cover, I had a bag full of veneer left over, I could have a go at making my own plywood of the rosewood and maple and cutting a three ply, rosewood/maple/rosewood cover from that.
I used six sheets of the veneer, an inner of two sheets of maple and outers each of two sheets of rosewood, alternating the grain direction.
A spread of glue, wrap them in clingfilm, and then clamped them together to let them dry.
Once dry, I cut it to shape with a utility knife and then put on the beveled edge using sandpaper. Here’s how the finished item looks after a wipe with Danish Oil.
And here’s the finished headstock.